2014年1月8日星期三

黃昏細雨 順化皇城 The Huế Royal Palace

西山朝、阮朝之故宮。

遠比我想像中的要驚艷。特別是宗廟系統,肇廟-太廟和興廟-世廟兩套系統在宮城兩側昭穆佈置,除了儒家追尊顯考傳統外,還有阮朝對廣南阮主的正統性的追溯,這是不見於現在中國都城的設置,但這是否是前朝宗室再次立國時的宗廟系統在越南留存的標本,的確令人大開腦洞。我禁不住腦補是否東漢洛陽和南宋臨安的宮城也設置有針對先漢和先宋宗室、並且與本朝對置的宗廟,實在太有得琢磨。

此外的奉先殿和園囿、宮城和皇城的嵌套關係等等各種制度,也都不是一句模仿中國能概括的。總體感覺,問題非常非常複雜。

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The imperial city wall with the moat, in front of the Ngăn Gate.

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The remaining stylobate of Cần Chánh Hall 勤政殿, audience hall for the emperor's regular meeting with officials.

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On the axis of the Forbidden Purple City, the ruin site of the Can Thanh Palace 乾成殿 and Khon Thai Palace 坤泰殿, the residential area for the royal family.

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The dragon-like sculptural drooping belt stone of the Kien Trung Pavilion 建中樓

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A cute timber bridge across the Ngọc Dịch Lake 玉液池 in the Ngu Uyen Garden 紹芳園

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The inner royal river in the Ngu Uyen Garden 紹芳園

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The Duyet Thi Hall 閱是堂, used as the royal theater, one of the largest structure in the Imperial City.

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It began to rain when we got into the Emerging Ancestral Temple 肇廟.

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However, we failed to get access to the Temple of the Generations 世廟 and thus missed the Nine Dynastic Urns 九鼎, as well as the Dien Tho Palace 壽祉宮, the Residence of the empress dowagers. We lingered in the quiet city until night.

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Our last glance at the amazing imperial city that night.

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