2014年1月20日星期一

怒濤 Billowing Clouds

清晨七點,北部灣。
Early morning on the Gulf of Tonkin.

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2014年1月9日星期四

順化阮朝皇陵連穿 Imperial Mausoleums of Vietnamese Nguyễn Dynasty

包了一輛出租車,明命、紹治、嗣德、啟定四陵連穿。

各種複雜問題:儒家體系,歐風東漸與落地,熱帶氣候、本地傳統……各陵之間制度非常離散,同一朝代內、短時段內陵寢制度的嬗變,比中國情況不知複雜到哪裡去了。已經震驚到沒有語言。

DSC00882-2 The stele pavilion, the Hiếu Mausoleum 孝陵 containing Emperor Minh Mạng 明命帝.

DSC00906-2 The Soul Tower 明樓 sits on the axis of Hiếu Mausoleum 孝陵

DSC00960-2-2 The front gate, Xương Mausoleum 昌陵 containing Emperor Thiệu Trị 紹治帝

DSC00978 Waterside of the Khiêm Mausoleum 謙陵 containing Emperor Tự Đức 嗣德帝.

DSC00981 The Stele Pavilion of the Khiêm Residence 謙宫, the former residence of Emperor Tự Đức and subsequently his tomb.

DSC01000-2 The stone coffin of Emperor Tự Đức

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DSC00939-2 Stone statues of the Ứng Mausoleum 應陵 containing Emperor Khải Định 啓定帝, the last imperial mausoleum of Vietnam.

DSC00943-2 The Memorial Hall of the Ứng Mausoleum 應陵

DSC00948-2 The statue of Emperor Khải Định sitting on his own coffin inside the Memorial Hall

2014年1月8日星期三

黃昏細雨 順化皇城 The Huế Royal Palace

西山朝、阮朝之故宮。

遠比我想像中的要驚艷。特別是宗廟系統,肇廟-太廟和興廟-世廟兩套系統在宮城兩側昭穆佈置,除了儒家追尊顯考傳統外,還有阮朝對廣南阮主的正統性的追溯,這是不見於現在中國都城的設置,但這是否是前朝宗室再次立國時的宗廟系統在越南留存的標本,的確令人大開腦洞。我禁不住腦補是否東漢洛陽和南宋臨安的宮城也設置有針對先漢和先宋宗室、並且與本朝對置的宗廟,實在太有得琢磨。

此外的奉先殿和園囿、宮城和皇城的嵌套關係等等各種制度,也都不是一句模仿中國能概括的。總體感覺,問題非常非常複雜。

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The imperial city wall with the moat, in front of the Ngăn Gate.

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The remaining stylobate of Cần Chánh Hall 勤政殿, audience hall for the emperor's regular meeting with officials.

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On the axis of the Forbidden Purple City, the ruin site of the Can Thanh Palace 乾成殿 and Khon Thai Palace 坤泰殿, the residential area for the royal family.

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The dragon-like sculptural drooping belt stone of the Kien Trung Pavilion 建中樓

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A cute timber bridge across the Ngọc Dịch Lake 玉液池 in the Ngu Uyen Garden 紹芳園

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The inner royal river in the Ngu Uyen Garden 紹芳園

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The Duyet Thi Hall 閱是堂, used as the royal theater, one of the largest structure in the Imperial City.

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It began to rain when we got into the Emerging Ancestral Temple 肇廟.

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However, we failed to get access to the Temple of the Generations 世廟 and thus missed the Nine Dynastic Urns 九鼎, as well as the Dien Tho Palace 壽祉宮, the Residence of the empress dowagers. We lingered in the quiet city until night.

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Our last glance at the amazing imperial city that night.

2014年1月7日星期二

彩色昇龍城 Imperial Citadel of Thang Long

@河內昇龍皇城,李朝、陳朝、後黎朝之故宮。

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等待開往南方的臥舖火車時,火車站附近的河內聖若瑟主座教堂。2014新年就要到了。 Visited the St. Joseph's Cathedral, Hanoi when waiting for the train to south Vietnam, three days before the 2014 New Year.
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